♻️ Composting Guide
Transform waste into garden gold - the complete guide
Composting is nature's way of recycling, turning organic waste into nutrient-rich humus that feeds soil and plants. Mastering composting is essential for biological gardening success.
What is Composting?
Composting is the controlled decomposition of organic materials by microorganisms (bacteria, fungi, actinomycetes) and invertebrates (worms, insects, mites). The end result is a dark, crumbly, earthy-smelling material called compost or humus.
Good compost provides slow-release nutrients, improves soil structure, increases water retention, feeds beneficial soil organisms, and helps suppress plant diseases.
The Perfect Compost Recipe
Successful composting requires balancing four key elements: carbon, nitrogen, air, and water. Think of it as feeding microorganisms - they need a balanced diet just like we do.
The Carbon-to-Nitrogen Ratio
The ideal C:N ratio for composting is about 30:1 (30 parts carbon to 1 part nitrogen). In practice, aim for:
- 60% "Browns" (carbon-rich): Dry leaves, straw, wood chips, cardboard, newspaper, sawdust
- 40% "Greens" (nitrogen-rich): Fresh grass clippings, food scraps, coffee grounds, fresh manure, garden waste
The Four Essential Elements
1. Carbon (Browns)
Purpose: Energy source for microorganisms, provides structure
Sources: Dry leaves, straw, wood chips, cardboard, paper, corn stalks
Too much: Slow decomposition, dry pile
2. Nitrogen (Greens)
Purpose: Protein source for microorganisms, speeds decomposition
Sources: Food scraps, fresh grass, coffee grounds, manure, garden trimmings
Too much: Smelly, slimy, ammonia odor
3. Air (Oxygen)
Purpose: Aerobic decomposition is faster and doesn't smell
How: Turn pile regularly, add coarse materials for structure
Too little: Anaerobic decomposition, smells like rotten eggs
4. Water (Moisture)
Purpose: Microorganisms need water to survive and function
Right amount: Like a wrung-out sponge - moist but not dripping
Too much: Anaerobic, smelly. Too little: Decomposition stops
Composting Methods
Hot Composting (Fast)
Timeline: 2-3 months to finished compost
How it works:
- Build pile all at once (minimum 3x3x3 feet / 1 cubic meter)
- Maintain proper C:N ratio (60% browns, 40% greens)
- Keep moist like wrung-out sponge
- Turn weekly to aerate
- Internal temperature reaches 140-160°F (60-71°C)
- Heat kills weed seeds and most pathogens
Best for: Gardeners who want finished compost quickly, have sufficient materials, and don't mind the work of turning.
Cold Composting (Slow)
Timeline: 6-12 months to finished compost
How it works:
- Add materials as available (no need to build all at once)
- Layer greens and browns roughly
- Minimal turning (1-2 times per season or not at all)
- Pile doesn't heat up significantly
- Slower process, but much less work
Best for: Lazy gardeners (me!), those adding materials gradually, minimal effort desired.
Vermicomposting (Worm Composting)
Timeline: 2-5 months
How it works:
- Red wiggler worms (Eisenia fetida) eat organic waste and produce castings
- Works in bins indoors or outdoors
- Feed worms kitchen scraps (no meat, dairy, oils, citrus)
- Harvest castings every 2-5 months
- Produces both castings (solid) and worm tea (liquid)
- Temperature-sensitive: worms need 55-77°F (13-25°C)
Best for: Apartment dwellers, small spaces, kitchen scrap disposal, producing premium fertilizer.
Trench Composting
Timeline: 6-12 months
How it works:
- Dig trench or hole 8-12 inches deep
- Add kitchen scraps directly into trench
- Cover immediately with soil to prevent pests
- Materials decompose in place
- Plant in that area next season
Best for: Those without space for bins, winter composting, directly enriching specific garden areas.
Bokashi Composting
Timeline: 2 weeks fermentation + 2-4 weeks in soil
How it works:
- Anaerobic fermentation using specialized microbes (bokashi bran)
- Can compost meat, dairy, oils (unlike traditional composting)
- Happens in sealed bucket indoors
- Fast process produces pickled waste
- Must be buried in soil for final decomposition
Best for: Those wanting to compost all food waste, winter composting indoors, small spaces.
What to Compost (and What to Avoid)
✅ Great for Composting (Greens)
- Fruit and vegetable scraps
- Coffee grounds and tea bags (remove staples)
- Eggshells (crushed)
- Fresh grass clippings (thin layers only)
- Garden trimmings and weeds (before seed)
- Fresh manure (herbivores only: chicken, cow, horse, rabbit)
- Seaweed and kelp
✅ Great for Composting (Browns)
- Dry leaves (shred large ones)
- Straw and hay
- Wood chips and sawdust (untreated wood)
- Cardboard and newspaper (remove tape, shred)
- Paper towels and napkins
- Dryer lint (natural fibers only)
- Pine needles (acidic - use moderately)
❌ NEVER Compost
- Meat, fish, bones: Attract pests, smell terrible, slow to decompose
- Dairy products: Attract pests, smell bad
- Fats, oils, grease: Create water-resistant coating, attract pests
- Pet waste (cats, dogs): May contain harmful pathogens
- Diseased plants: Can spread disease. Burn or trash instead
- Weeds with seeds: Seeds may survive and spread
- Invasive plants: Can regenerate from fragments
- Chemically treated materials: Pesticides, herbicides, pressure-treated wood
- Glossy/coated paper: Contains plastics or chemicals
- Coal or charcoal ash: Contains harmful substances
⚠️ Use With Caution
- Citrus peels: Can repel worms, use in moderation
- Onion/garlic scraps: Can repel worms, use in moderation
- Bread, pasta, rice: Attract pests, bury deep in pile
- Grass clippings: Can mat and turn slimy, add in thin layers mixed with browns
Building Your Compost System
Simple Open Pile
Pros: Free, easy, no construction needed, expandable
Cons: Can look messy, accessible to animals, loses heat quickly
How: Pile materials directly on ground in corner of yard. Cover with tarp in winter.
Wire Bin
Pros: Cheap, easy DIY, good airflow, expandable
Cons: Less attractive, accessible to small animals
How: Form cylinder from wire fencing (minimum 3 feet diameter, 3 feet tall), stake in place.
Wood Pallet Bin
Pros: Free/cheap pallets, sturdy, good size, attractive
Cons: Requires assembly, semi-permanent
How: Stand 3-4 pallets on edge, secure corners with wire or screws. Leave one side removable for access.
Three-Bin System
Pros: Best for hot composting, continuous production, neat appearance
Cons: Expensive/time-consuming to build, takes space
How: Build three adjacent bins. Bin 1 = fresh materials, Bin 2 = actively composting, Bin 3 = finished compost.
Tumbler
Pros: Easy turning, contained, faster composting, pest-proof
Cons: Expensive, limited capacity, can be too dry
How: Purchase commercial tumbler or build rotating drum. Turn every few days.
Troubleshooting Common Problems
🦨 Problem: Pile Smells Bad
Cause: Too much nitrogen (greens), lack of oxygen, or too wet
Solution:
- Add browns (dry leaves, shredded paper, straw)
- Turn pile to incorporate oxygen
- If too wet, add browns and turn to dry out
🐌 Problem: Pile Not Heating Up
Cause: Too small, too much carbon (browns), too dry, or cold weather
Solution:
- Build larger pile (minimum 3x3x3 feet)
- Add greens (fresh grass, food scraps, manure)
- Water pile if dry
- In winter, insulate with straw or cover
🐜 Problem: Attracting Pests
Cause: Food scraps exposed, meat/dairy in pile, pile too accessible
Solution:
- Bury food scraps deep in center of pile
- Cover with brown materials immediately
- Don't add meat, dairy, oils, or bones
- Use closed bin or cover pile with hardware cloth
🦠 Problem: Pile Too Dry
Cause: Insufficient moisture, too many browns, hot/dry weather
Solution:
- Water pile while turning (like wrung-out sponge)
- Add greens which contain more moisture
- Cover pile to reduce evaporation
💦 Problem: Pile Too Wet/Slimy
Cause: Too much moisture, poor drainage, excessive rain, too many greens
Solution:
- Add browns to absorb excess moisture
- Turn pile to increase aeration
- Cover pile to prevent more rain
- Ensure pile has drainage (not sitting in puddle)
When Is Compost Ready?
Signs of Finished Compost
- Dark brown/black color: Looks like rich soil
- Crumbly texture: Falls apart easily in your hand
- Earthy smell: Smells like forest floor, not rotten
- Original materials unrecognizable: Can't identify what went in (some twigs ok)
- Cool temperature: No longer generating heat
- Volume reduced: Pile shrinks to 40-60% of original size
How to Use Finished Compost
- Soil amendment: Mix 2-4 inches into garden beds before planting
- Top-dressing: Sprinkle 1-2 inches around established plants
- Mulch: Apply 2-3 inches around plants (not touching stems)
- Potting mix: Mix 20-40% compost with other ingredients
- Lawn topdressing: Spread thin layer (1/4 inch) and rake in
- Compost tea: Steep in water for liquid fertilizer
Advanced Composting Tips
Accelerate Decomposition
- Chop materials smaller: Smaller pieces decompose faster (more surface area)
- Add compost starter: Inoculate with finished compost or commercial activator
- Maintain moisture: Keep pile moist but not waterlogged
- Turn frequently: Every 3-7 days for hot composting
- Balance C:N ratio: Mix greens and browns thoroughly
Winter Composting
- Insulate pile: Surround with straw bales or pile extra browns around sides
- Build larger pile: Larger mass retains heat better
- Cover pile: Tarp or lid prevents freezing rain/snow
- Continue adding: Materials will freeze but decompose in spring
- Use indoor methods: Vermicomposting or bokashi work year-round
Making Compost Tea
- Fill bucket 1/3 full with finished compost
- Add water to fill bucket
- Stir daily for 3-7 days
- Strain out solids (return to compost pile)
- Dilute tea until color of weak tea
- Apply as soil drench or foliar spray
- Use within 24 hours for best results
🌱 Composting Success Principles
- • Balance is key: 60% browns, 40% greens for best results
- • Size matters: Minimum 3x3x3 feet for hot composting
- • Chop it up: Smaller pieces decompose faster
- • Keep it moist: Like a wrung-out sponge
- • Turn for oxygen: Aeration speeds decomposition and prevents odors
- • Be patient: Good things come to those who compost
💡 Pro Tip
Keep a small bucket with lid in your kitchen for collecting food scraps. When full, take it to your compost pile. This makes composting convenient and you're more likely to stick with it. Sprinkle a handful of baking soda in the bucket to control odors between trips.
📚 Further Reading
Explore our Books section for comprehensive composting guides, including "The Rodale Book of Composting" and "Worms Eat My Garbage" by Mary Appelhof for vermicomposting.